I was asked by a frequent blog reader to share information on what to look for when buying harness boots.

Of the three styles of motorcycle boots for casual street riders — engineer boots, harness boots, and tactical (or lace/zip shorty) boots — harness boots are among the most popular boots out there.

From a tutorial about boots on hotboots.com that I wrote: Harness boots are most often made of heavyweight leather and range in height from short (10″) to extra high (38″). The most typical height is between 10 and 18 inches (most common is 12 inches). The most common colors are black and brown, but harness boots can be found in other colors and roughout leather as well.

Harness boots were originally modeled on the square-toed boots prevalent in the 19th century, including those worn by U.S. Civil War soldiers. Leather straps and rings were added to this style in the 1950s, creating the modern version of the harness boot.

Admired by men for their rugged, masculine good looks, it is no wonder that bikers and non-bikers alike choose to wear them.

If you are interested in a new pair of harness boots, here are my opinions about what to look for in a good harness boot.

Leather

Look for leather that is 7oz or more in thickness and is made of top grain cowhide — not a split (that is the interior, thinner, and lower quality leather from the inside of a cow’s skin).

Sole

Look for thick, durable, oil-resistant soles that are sewn on (where the threads along the sole where it is attached to the foot of the boot are visible). Soles made by Vibram (yellow plug) are an excellent choice. Soles that are not marked “oil resistant” indicate lesser quality and more likely subject to hastened deterioration when exposed to water or oil on roadways.

Soles that are glued on or are marked “composite” are of inferior quality. Glued soles cannot be replaced by a cobbler and often come apart with just a little wear or exposure to water. Composite soles also fall apart and do not withstand wear well, especially on a biker’s feet while operating a motorcycle.

Harness Rings

Brass or nickel harness rings will resist oxidation (rust) and will not cause bad marking on the leather under them. Steel harness rings will rust and discolor quickly.

Pull straps

Good quality harness boots will have pull straps at the top of the boot shaft (on the sides of short boots, and a loop on the top of the backstay of tall boots).

Leather Lining

Harness boots that are lined with leather will be more comfortable and more durable. Leather-lined boots may cost a little more, but the lining is well worth it.

Shaft Circumference

Harness boots are pulled onto the foot. The circumference (distance around) or the diameter (width of opening) must be sufficient enough to accommodate your foot to pull the boots on and pull them off. Some guys also like to tuck in their jeans into the boots. The shaft circumference must be big enough to accommodate the foot (to make it easy enough to pull on and off) as well as the thickness of jeans or leather if worn inside the boot.

Some harness boots, such as those made by Champion Attitude, Chippewa, and Wesco, have ample width to accommodate inserting and pulling out your foot. Other boots of lower quality frequently have a short-cut in manufacture — shrinking the calf circumference. The following manufacturers have this problem: Double H, Dingo, Durango, and Frye. Avoid them because they are much more difficult to get on and off.

Location of Manufacture

Look for harness boots made in the USA or Canada. Chippewa, Wesco, and Boulet harness boots are made in these countries.

Harness boots made in China are made by machine with low-quality materials and inferior production standards, usually have glued soles, and are made of thin, unlined leather. Boots with the label “Frye,” “Harley-Davidson,” “River Road,” “X-element” and others are made in China. In my opinion, they are not worth the price, even if the price is low.

Height

The vast majority of commercially-made harness boots are a standard 12 inches (30cm) high. It is possible to get harness boots that are taller, but you usually have to custom order tall harness boots. Wesco harness boots are well regarded for superb quality, tall harness boots (but are quite pricey. You get what you pay for!)

Alternative skins

It is possible to find harness boots made with lizard, ostrich, or python skin on the foot. The choice is yours. Boots made with these skins certainly are different. Most men, though, choose regular leather. Few men want anyone to notice what is on their feet and are afraid that others may notice (trust me, no one does).

Accessories

Some harness boots are made with a zipper on the side to ease pulling them on or taking them off. The trouble with a zipper is that a zipper reduces the integrity of the boot and can be damaged rather quickly. Personally, I do not recommend a zipper.

Also, some harness boots come with attachments on the front harness strap. I have seen metal studs, stars, conchos, or grommets. Most guys go for plain harness straps, but if you want, you can choose to accessorize the harness strap.

Summary

I own and wear dozens of harness boots. I like the style and appearance. Overall, my favorites that have withstood the test of time are made by Chippewa (affordable) and Wesco (pricey.) I own harness boots made by other manufacturers and cannot recommend boots made with the Double H, Dingo, Durango, Frye, Harley-Davidson, River Road, or X-element labels. Harness boots made under these labels do not fit well, are made with short-cuts in manufacturing, and many of them are machine-made in China.

Life is short: wear harness boots.